The following
pics and info about using a multimeter are compliments of AMD
Power.com
All of the
numbers and letters as well as the AMD symbol, large dots and
delta symbols are connected to ground. It is imperative not to get
any conductive grease on these areas or the unlocking attempt will
not work. If you choose to use a multi-meter, you should place one
probe on Arrow 1 and take resistance measurements across all of
the dots on the Arrow 3 side of the L1. The Arrow 4 side of L1
should give you 0L readings. The bottom of the pits and the
symbols on the chip should give a near zero resistance reading
because they are connected. I also found it useful to use the pin
to take the measurements while holding it to the probe. The pin is
much smaller than the end of the probe. I am not going to get
technical on the readings because I simply do not know the proper
measurements...

General Guidelines:
Think small... The L1
bridges are extremely tiny. The magnifying glass should help the
application process run smoothly. The large lens is 3x
magnification and the small lens is 6x, the latter is terrific for
checking the accuracy of your work along the way. Use only a VERY
small amount of material on the applicator pin in each step,
especially the CONDUCTIVE GREASE. Each bridge only needs the
equivalent of a few grains of sand.
Bridging the gap... Each of
the five L1 bridges contains a "gap" or valley in
between two "dots". The goal is to fill in the gap with
the non conductive GAP FILLER and create a bridge between the two
dots with the CONDUCTIVE GREASE without crossing over or
contaminating the bridge on either side, causing a short.
Mistakes? If you make a
mistake don't worry! Just use the CLEANING AGENT (CA) with a Qtip
(or similar) and wipe everything clean. The CA dries quickly so
you can start over immediately. It's also great to clean the
applicator pin as you're working, the core prior to applying
thermal paste, and your fingers when your done.
Technique... When applying
the GF lay the pin on its side to scrape away excess leaving the
GF in the valleys level with the CPU surface. When applying the CG
dip the pin in the CG vial, wipe most of it on the inside of the
vial, then hold the pin vertically. Using the point of the pin
(with just enough grease to cover the point) dab a spot on each of
the L1's "dots" (not much bigger than the dot itself)
and with the pin drag the grease across the filled-in valley. If
one bridge runs into another, don't try to repair it by cleaning
in between the bridges, just use the CA and start over. It may
take a time or two of practice to get it right...

Procedure:
First thing: Use a pencil eraser
and rub the L1 area to clean off any layered debris left from the
manufacturing process. Lightly scraping the "dots" with
the pin will also ensure good electrical conductivity.
1) Pull off a tape tab and cover
the L3 bridges. (Better safe than sorry)
2) Dip pin in GAP FILLER (GF) and
paint entire L1 area filling in "valley". You may want
to mask off both rows of "dots" to help keep them clean.
3) Use your finger (yes, your
finger, we found it to work best here.) to wipe away excess GF,
leaving material in the valleys. Don't worry about the trace
amounts left in the "dots" yet.
4) Pull off another tape tab.
Gently lay tape over L1 area (don't press down!). Use clean pin
head and gently push down on each dot through the tape. This will
pull the remaining GF from the dots and not from the valleys. If
there are smears left from step 3 carefully press down on them
through the tape as well. Slowly pull off tape and discard. This
will clean L1 area for the next step.
5) Dip clean pin into CONDUCTIVE
GREASE. Using an extremely small amount dab straight down on one
dot, then the other, then dab a line between the two dots over the
filled in valley. Repeat for each of the 5 bridges. Remember,
don't let the CG touch the bridge next to it!
6) Pull tape tab off of the L3
bridges.
For the
XP2100+ please refer to: http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=1009
For the XP2200+ and later the only bridge that needs connected is
L3 #5 (The
2200+ and later CPU's unlocked by the L3 #5 method will only allow
for access to 12.5 and lower multipliers.)
Considerations:
Finished? Almost. Look over the CPU
for stray material, especially the CONDUCTIVE GREASE, and clean
anything away with the CLEANING AGENT. Keep in mind that the CG
will not dry so when you have it right DON'T TOUCH IT!
Using a CPU shim? Make sure the
shim won't rest over the L1 bridges or it may smear the CG. The
best AMD XP shim on the market that is completely compatible with
this Kit is the Tweakmonster's purple shim located on our website.
Apply a good thermal paste to the
core of the CPU, reinstall your heatsink, and you're ready to test
out your handiwork. If once you boot into SETUP and you don't have
the multipliers you want available to you, try the procedure
again. There is enough material in the kit to last the average
person quite a while...
Problems or questions? Just ask,
we're glad to help: support@highspeedpc.com
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